I
grew up in America during the times of The Troubles in Belfast and Northern
Ireland. Though the issues are complex, a simple explanation is the conflict
between the Protestants or Loyalists (those who tend to be loyal to the British
throne and who want Northern Ireland to remain part of the United Kingdom) and
the Catholics or Unionists (those who want a united Ireland and a separation
from the United Kingdom).
So
when I traveled to Belfast recently, I was more than a bit apprehensive about
going there. I worried about venturing into the wrong neighborhood, saying the
wrong thing, or wearing the wrong colors.
Yes,
you read that correctly. You can spot at a glance whether you’re in the
Protestant section or the Catholic section by the colors displayed. The British
Jack in its red, white and blue can be seen flying proudly over the Protestant
areas, along with pictures of the Queen of England and other monarchy. Cross
into the Catholic section and you could be verbally or physically assaulted if
you flew the Union Jack. There you’ll see the Irish colors of green, white and
orange flying proudly.
The
most curious thing that happened to me while visiting Northern Ireland was a
trip to the post office to purchase stamps for a friend in the States who
wanted them for his collection. On the first day I went in, I asked the lady
behind the counter for some postage stamps. She stared at me as if I had
arrived from Mars. I asked her again, more slowly in case my accent made me
difficult to understand. She said they didn’t have any and she turned and
walked away.
When
I told my sister of the problem, we returned together. This time, my sister
asked her for postage stamps. Again, she said they didn’t have any. We must
have had an expression like Elaine on an episode of Seinfeld because a
gentleman came from a back office and asked us what we wanted. When we told him
we were simply looking for postage stamps for a collector friend back home, he
took us to another area where he sold us the stamps.
It
turns out that every stamp in the United Kingdom is exactly the same except for
the color: they all display the Queen of England. And it also turns out that
Unionists or Catholics would never, ever collect anything with the Queen’s
likeness on it. I had mistakenly stepped over the line when I asked to buy
postage stamps but didn’t have a letter to mail.
In
1997, then-President Bill Clinton forged an agreement between the Unionists and
the Loyalists to end thirty years of violence. Though the bombings stopped, the
animosity between the two groups did not end overnight. In 2015, the vast
majority of school-age children are raised completely separated by their
religion—Catholic or Protestant—and integrated neighborhoods are nearly
non-existent. It has only been recently that adults have begun working together
in business, side by side.
The
neighborhoods are separated by a wall. On one side there is a wrought iron gate
behind which the Protestants live. On the other side is a graffiti-covered
concrete wall behind which the Catholics live. The graffiti has risen to an art
level, and even the most beautiful or poignant among them can be there today
and gone tomorrow as they are continually covered over by newer images.
In
this film clip of the Peace Wall (which is the name given to it after the peace
agreement was signed) I was riding in a tour bus, which is the best method for
seeing the city without the risk of venturing into the wrong neighborhood.
When
I arrived in Belfast on the Ulster Bus, we stopped where every bus stops that
ventures into Belfast: at the Europa Hotel. Little did I know at the time that
the Europa Hotel held the distinction of being the most bombed building in the
world until the Baghdad Hotel took that title after the start of the Iraq War.
I
asked a Catholic lady in a village outside of Belfast how The Troubles had
affected her family and friends, because it occurred to me that when I arrived
at the Europa, I was amidst a number of people (predominantly women on my bus)
who had come to the city to work or to shop. They were civilians. A bomb going
off in the bus terminal would have killed or maimed primarily civilians of both
faiths.
The
lady I questioned told me that no one ventured into Belfast during that time;
it had become too dangerous. The Troubles, she went on to say, hadn’t done
anyone any favors and the violence had only made everything worse. If they
couldn’t find what they were looking for outside of Belfast, they simply went
without.
Belfast
is growing today as a result of 17+ years without the bombings. It is a
beautiful city about the size of Richmond, Virginia. One of the more impressive
sights is the Titanic Museum, which I’ll cover in detail next week.
If
you plan to visit Belfast, I suggest the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus.
The tickets are good for 48 hours after you first use them, and you have the
ability to hop off at any of the stops and hop back on when the next bus
arrives, which is anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour later. In addition to the
Peace Wall, it tours the Shankill Memorial Garden, Crumlin Road and Donegal
Street, Falls Road, Queens University, cathedrals and the Titanic.
Colors to avoid wearing in Belfast: red, white and blue; green, white and orange. They represent the flags of Britain and of the Republic of Ireland.
Symbols to avoid wearing: the crown, the poppy flower, an orange ribbon or orange sash, a bowler hat, the star of David, and the red clenched fist are all symbols of the Loyalists. IRA slogans (representing the Irish Republican Army), the Crest of the O'Neills, the Celtic emblem, the Crest of the United Irishmen, the Easter Lily (symbolizing the Easter Rising of 1916 which led to Irish Independence), and the green ribbon all symbolize the Unionists.
Subjects to avoid while in Belfast: religion and politics.
Next
week: The Titanic, one of Belfast's newest attractions.